M Kokko

The forgotten member of the M family in Durham?

I’ve already waxed poetic on M Tempura, the source of my favorite meal in Durham. I also maintain that the Michelin Guide’s greatest oversight when evaluating Durham was not including one of the restaurants in the M family. When considering the Bull City’s best restaurants M Sushi and M Tempura immediately jump to mind. I’m also quick to recommend M Pocha, a Korean restaurant that provides a lively atmosphere and delicious food. But I tend to forget M Kokko, a self-described “casual” eatery that is just as impressive as its sibling restaurants.

M Kokko is tucked away in a back alley right behind M Sushi, so you’d forgive my forgetting this literal hole-in-the-wall joint. The teeny restaurant fittingly serves a pared down menu comprised of a fusion of Japanese and Korean dishes including noodles, pork buns, and chicken dishes. The fried chicken sandwich is a particular standout and a great choice for first time diners.

When I was planning to write about M Kokko, I considered the idea of “memorability” - a common praise for excellent restaurants and bars. Usually it connotes a unique experience that combines the atmosphere and quality of food. I would contend that M Sushi and M Tempura are high on the memorability scale. And while M Kokko might not stand out in Durham’s dining scene, I think it excels in its simplicity.

Moreover, I wouldn’t confuse simple for plain. The dishes are full of flavor, the service is professional, and the price is fair. A plain restaurant leaves you feeling sated, M Kokko leaves you feeling full. I might not be dreaming of their noodle dishes for years to come, but I am going to recommend them to anyone looking for a high-quality, low-cost meal in downtown Durham.

Pros: A delicious and affordable meal that combines Japanese and Korean flavors in downtown Durham.

Cons: Located in a back alley, M Kokko can be hard to find especially if you’re looking for a spontaneous option while strolling through downtown.

Best Time to Go: Lunchtime during the week.

Best For: Casual lunch on Friday or a weeknight dinner. Plus it makes for a great takeout option.

Pro Tip: Don’t skip the KFC wings!